Tag Archives: Coche Dury

French Wine Night at Pera

Recently we joined friends in SF for a French Wine Dinner at Pera. The dinner included a lineup of awesome wines, including two exceptional bottles of Coche Dury pictured at left. The flight of the night, found the contrast in the two wines striking. One was delicate and feminine, the other powerful and masculine!

What made the tasting more challenging than usual was the relatively small pours. Given the larger group size, it did not allow the best opportunity to revisit the wine later in the evening. Continue to suggest that 6 to 8 person tastings offer the best opportunity to fully evaluate a 750ml bottle of wine. Evaluating wine aside, the true spirit of the evening was to share special bottles of wine among friends, and that is exactly what we did!

The following are very brief observations of all wines opened sorted in order of personal preference by flight.

Chablis Starter

2001 Raveneau Butteaux – Oyster shell, sweet citrus, moist white cake, nice acidity and balance. A well structured, very good drinking wine.

Dom Perignon Flight

1978 Dom Perignon – Clean, peach, bright orange, nutty, white chocolate, a compelling full bodied Champagne that showed best among the flight.

1976 Dom Perignon– Not too far off stylistically from the 1978, walnut, hardwood, hazelnut, and spice. Some oxidation, but not significant.

1998 Dom Perignon -Honey, tart, lemon, firm acidity, was way too young to be opened. Should cellar this wine for years before opening.

1990 Dom Perignon – A flawed bottle.

Rose Flight

1996 Dom Perignon Rose– Bright, light cherry, powder, restrained, elegant and clean. An excellent Rose, and close top pick as wine of the flight.

N.V. Krug Champagne Brut Rose – More powerful than the Dom Perignon, yeasty, rose pedal, young, and a long finish. Very close second wine of the flight.

Coche Dury Flight

2001 Coche Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrieres– Floral, oily, creme brulee, flinty, a lovely soft, but well balanced elegant wine that is ready to drink now.

2001 Coche Dury Meursault – Toasty, petrol, powerful wine, coarse texture, intense citrus, mineral, a young drinking wine that should be aged longer.

Burgundy Flight 1

1990 Frederic Esmonin Griottes Chambertin– Clean blue fruits, mineral, rough texture, but highly age worthy. Did not have a strong preference of the 90 over the 93.

1993 Frederic Esmonin Griottes Chambertin – Sweet, game meats, ripe, perfectly mature, open knit, shut down a bit as it sat in the glass.

Burgundy Flight 2

1996 Domaine Dujac Charmes Chambertin– Blue fruits, exotic and tropical, stemy, a strong showing as wine of the flight.

1996 Louis Jadot Chambertin – Big ripe powerful full bodied Jadot, showed very well next to the Dujac and Bertagna.

1996 Domaine Bertagna Chambertin – Medium bodied, spice, firm acidity, but mellowed out in time. Good balance, nice age worthy wine.

1996 Frederic Esmonin Clos Vougeot – Light bodied, high acidity, lacked character, thought this was a disappointing wine in tough company.

Bordeaux Flight

1983 Chateau Margaux– Mineral, earthy, floral, perfect balance and integration. A young wine that has plenty of life.

1962 Chateau Canon – Saddle leather, nice tannin, no signs of oxidation, an excellent old Bordeaux that showed well.

1986 Chateau Margaux – Not too far off in style from the 83 Margaux, however slightly more menthol and less balanced.

1983 Chateau Palmer – A flawed bottle.

Sweet Finish

1944 Massandra Muscat Rose– Absolutely gorgeous, caramel, thick, rich, butterscotch, a lovely end of meal wine, one of the best wines of the evening.

1955 Domaines et Terroirs du Sud Rivesaltes Millesime – Lean, tight, did not find this wine appealing. In very tough company next to the Massandra.

Cheers to wonderful wines, good friends, and a highly enjoyable evening!

Nick Wittman
Santa Rosa Fine Wine
http://www.santarosafinewine.com/

All French Wine Dinner

This past weekend, got together with local friends in Sonoma to enjoy an all French wine dinner! In the case of this dinner, it was nice to revisit quite a few wines previously tasted to see how they are progressing. As is often the case with French wines, they are progressing slowly!

Wine flights were two bottles each. Find this to be an effective format, if for one reason alone, to hold over a flight into the next and only have 4 glasses on the table. Often times, we do flights of 3 wines, and 6 glasses can be challenging to keep straight!

All wines were served pop and pour, with the exception of the 2000 Bordeaux which were given about an hour decant. As with other tastings, sorted the wine in order of personal preference per flight. Brief observations of all wines opened follow:

White Wine of the Night:
2004 Domaine Leflaive Clavoillon

Red Wine of the Night:
1996 Ducru Beaucaillou

Champagne Starter

2002 Cristal – Nutty, crisp, easy drinking with lemon and orange citrus. Somewhat light in body and certainly light in color, was rather disappointed in the wine. Enjoyed other Cristal Champagnes in the past so had high expectations that were not met in this wine.

Chablis

2002 Raveneau Montee de Tonnerre – Oyster shell and floral with firm acidity and excellent minerality. The wine was full bodied and simply beautiful with a clean almost cool clean ocean breeze nose. A highly complex excellent drinking wine.

2001 Raveneau Butteaux – An interesting contrast to the 2002, was more lemon, pineapple, and nutty in style. Lighter bodied, it had a loamy texture and notable yeast. The acidity on this wine was well buried, and carried the wine well into the evening.

White Burgundy

2004 Domaine Leflaive Clavoillon – Another great Domaine Leflaive. Petrol, sulfur, motor oil on the nose, became sweeter, almost cotton candy like on the palate. An absolutely gorgeous drinking wine that kept improving over the span of the evening.

2007 Coche Dury Meursault – The most “un-Coche” like Coche Meursault I have tasted, perhaps due to its youth. Restrained, very light sulfur, mineral, combined with lemon and caramel. Was far cleaner and laser precise in style than other years tasted. An excellent wine.

A Wine Intermission

1987 Chateau Montelena– Served blind, was grassy at first, had nice tannin, asian spice, anise, bell pepper, dusty stewed raspberry fruits and a deep dark ruby color that convinced almost everyone it was a mid to late 90’s wine. Having had the wine 6 or 7 times now, it was the most mature example tasted to date. No rush to open, has many more years to age and improve.

1998 Mongeard Mugneret Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes – Served for our friends who are not big fans of white wine, was intially light, but put on weight. Noted some light grass, blue fruits with a hint of cola. A clean wine, had nice acidity and a citrus finish. Really enjoyed this wine, but in tough company next to the 1987 Montelena.

1980’s Bordeaux

1989 Pichon Baron – Bacon, fatty, meaty, and raspberry fruits, the wine showed very tight at first, and put on considerable weight in time. A dense wine for sure, with a sweet caramel finish. Showed very well and drank young.

1986 Montrose – A notably aged wine, showed more forest floor, baked red and black fruits, and an appealing barnyard component. The wine was somewhat foxy in a good way, and showed a little rougher than other examples tasted of this wine.

1990’s Bordeaux

1996 Ducru Beaucaillou – The red wine of the night, it was simply outstanding with ripe red raspberry liquor fruit, with a dense full bodied mouthfeel and a long sweet finish. While it was both elegant and refined, was surprisingly ready to drink now. Overall, a wow wine!

1996 Lynch Bages – Far more structured and youthful drinking than the Ducru, was far more shutdown at this stage and more grassy with darker fruits, cigar, earth and an appealing minerality. Had a lovely mint note on the finish. A very good wine that needs additional cellar aging.

2000’s Bordeaux

2000 Pichon Baron – One of the most nuanced wines of the night, noted menthol and mint, chalk and leather, coffee and black berries, all over the place, but in a good way. Decanted the wine for about an hour, and proved to be very youthful. An excellent wine to continue aging.

2000 Calon Segur – Impossibly closed and shutdown, was unapproachable even after an hour plus decant, and additional time in the glass. Noted rhubarb and scorched earth in a wine that is just not ready to go. Cellar for many more years before opening.

Sauternes

1986 Rieussec – Waxy, orange rind, sweet honey, and butterscotch in an easy drinking end of meal wine. Would be an excellent wine to revisit in a few decades!

Cheers to an awesome evening!
Nick Wittman
Santa Rosa Fine Wine
http://www.santarosafinewine.com/

Burgundy Dinner

This past Thursday, got together with local friends in San Francisco for a high end Burgundy Dinner, one of which was a lovely 1926 Musigny pictured at left! There were a total of 14 wines opened among the 7 of us, paired with a mult-course meal prepared by a local personal chef!

Each person brought 2 bottles, which is probably just about right for any normal dinner, but not so sure with wines of this level. Normally a dump bucket is actively used, but not in this case.

What made this dinner interesting beyond the excellent wine, was the distinct impact the glass type had on your perception of a wine. We tried many of the same wines in different high quality glasses and noted profound differences. That said, some future experiments are in order! The following is a list of all wines opened and brief notes sorted in order of personal preference.

White Wine of the Night:
2001 CocheDury Corton Charlemagne

Red Wine of the Night:
1990 George Roumier Bonnes Mares

Champagne:

1985 Krug – The Krug was reminiscent of a lighter 1985 Dom Perignon tasted at a previous wine dinner. Somewhat honeyed, a little oxidized, slightly flat, with a full mouth feel and fully mature. Having had an excellent 1982 and 1988 Krug in the past, expected more, especially more crispness and youth, so overall considered it just an ok wine. The wine was not flawed by any means, stylistically however, not personally enjoyable.

1981 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rose – An interesting bottle of wine. When first opened, one of the guests immediately said it was a flawed bottle! Always curious to learn, several of us took a quick taste. Half immediately agreed it was flawed, a few others not so sure. At first, thought the wine was very light, but pleasant. In about 5 to 10 minutes, faded further and was just flabby and tasteless. Agree, a flawed bottle.

White Burgundy:

2001 CocheDury Corton Charlemagne – The Coche was the white wine of the night. Initially closed, crisp and balanced, had some diesel and toasty oak notes up front. It was very elegant, could sense the hidden potential richness that slowly came out in time. This is a wine you really want a full bottle to enjoy slowly over a long evening, buckle in, and get ready for quite a ride!

2004 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues Batard Montrachet – The not too distant second best white wine of the night, take the diesel of the Coche and multiply it by 10! Along with it, add tons of citrus, black tar, burnt matchstick and you have this Leflaive! It was intense, brutal on the palate, a monster wine! Set aside a glass and enjoyed throughout the evening as it opened up and balanced out. Domaine Leflaive is a world class producer and makes awesome White Burgundies.

1985 Joseph Drouhin Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet – How often can you say that the least enjoyable bottle opened at a wine dinner was a Montrachet? Such was the case with this dinner. The wine was funky, a little oxidized, and not too enjoyable. There was some discussion the funkiness might blow off, but skeptical it would ever come around. Tend to think it was just a bad bottle, the fill was pretty low. Would be interesting to revisit a different bottle.

Red Burgundy:

1990 George Roumier Bonnes Mares – The red wine of the night, the Bonnes Mares was slightly barnyard on the nose in an appealing way, with rich, almost candied cherry notes on the palate. A gorgeous wine with perfect balance and awesome complexity.

1990 Leroy VosneRomanee Beaux Monts – A close second for red wine of the night was the Leroy. It was drinking far younger than the Roumier. Noted the wine as closed, but with significant depth dominated by chewy boysenberry fruits and distinct acidity. A huge wine!

1926 Jules Belin Musigny – The oldest Burgundy tasted to date, the Musigny was spicy, leathery, and tart with dark chocolate notes and surprisingly toasty. It had an absence of oxidation with firm acid and tannin. Once opened, started to decline in about a half hour.

1988 Bouchard La Romanee – An elegant smooth cola dominated Burgundy, initially tight, opening up quickly into a mature easy drinking wine. Have been fortunate to taste a lot of 1988 Burgundy and consistently pleased with the overall quality across producers.

1988 DRC Echezeaux – A very young 1988, the Echezeaux was gamey with big fruit, and subtle balance. It was clear the wine had a lot of life ahead of it and drinking wonderfully. It exceeded expectations and was a surprisingly lush fruit forward wine.

1998 DRC Echezeaux – Interestingly enough, the 1998 DRC Echezeaux was more mature drinking than the 1988. It was brighter, with strawberry fruit, and good underlying structure. It also has a long life ahead of it, but slightly more mature drinking at present than the 1988.

1993 DRC Romanee St. Vivant – Better than the 1991 RSV, it showed high acidity when first opened, and was relatively grassy, some spice, but predominately green notes. With air, it did put on some weight, but quality was not as high as both Echezeaux. Good wine to revisit.

1991 DRC Romanee St. Vivant – Had high expectations for this wine, but fell short. Found the wine light in style, somewhat grassy and forest floor. Not very complex, just an ok wine. The wine may improve considerably with air as some suggested, making it a good wine to revisit.

Dessert Wine:

1937 Massandra Rose Muscat Gurzuf – Second time tasting this wine with consistent notes, it is liquified maple syrup, honey, thick and rich, and this is said in the most positive way. In the last year, have increasing become a big fan of Massandra as the ideal end of meal wine!

Cheers to world class Burgundy!

Nick Wittman
Santa Rosa Fine Wine
http://www.santarosafinewine.com/