Got together with a small group of friends from the San Francisco Bay area recently to enjoy some Burgundy. Among a very enjoyable group of wines, thought the 1990 Lafarge Volnay Clos des Chenes showed best overall. It had all the qualities of an exceptional wine, balance, complexity, good structure, and a seductive style that kept making you want to go back for more!
Another highly noteworthy and enjoyable wine, the 2004 Domaine Chevalier Corton Charlemagne. It showed extremely well and similar to the red, had all the hallmarks of an exceptional wine in terms of balance, complexity as well as subtle nuances that made it both interesting and thrilling to revisit over a few hours. Tasting 2004 and 2005 White Burgundies regularly, continue to prefer 2004 for drinking in the near term.
As with previous blog entries, brief observations of all wines opened follow, sorted in order of personal preference by flight.
1996 Bollinger RD – Yeasty, nice acidity, lemon rind, dough, meyer lemon, a young Champagne that kept improving over the span of the evening. A very exceptional wine.
White Burgundy Flight 1
2004 Fevre Les Clos- Very shutdown, firm acidty, mineral. No where near ready to enjoy, needs years to resolve. Took hours for it to even begin to show its potential.
2000 Fevre Valmur – Right out of the gate, highly enjoyable. Clean, pure, good balance, also mineral. In about an hour, started to decline and became less interesting.
2002 Ried Klaus Jamek – Dry, yet well rounded, paraffin and creamy in texture. Little experience with Austrian wines, but this showed very well.
White Burgundy Flight 2
2004 Domaine Chevalier Corton Charlemagne – Well structured, big wine, excellent power and balance, slightly flinty and highly age worthy. A gorgeous wine.
2005 H. Boillot Corton Charlemagne – More floral than the earthy Chevalier, sweet, big, though young and unresolved. Great long term potential after years of cellar aging.
1986 P. Dubreuil-Fontaine Corton Charlemagne – Wax, honey, oxidized, drinkable, but past maturity. Opened more as a curiosity than anything, did not show very well.
1988 Pierre Bitouzet Corton Charlemagne – Oxidized and undrinkable.
2000 Williams Seylem Allen Vineyard Chardonnay – A blind ringer, correctly guessed as aged Chardonnay. Fully mature, creme brulee, nice minerality and balance, a good drinking wine that indicated 16% ABV, but did not show heat.
Red Burgundy Flight 1
1990 Lafarge Volnay Clos des Chenes – Gamey, red and blue fruits, menthol, an absolutely gorgeous nuanced and near perfect drinking wine. The wine of the night!
1995 Lafon Volnay Santenots du Milieu – Black pepper, rich big fruit, took a long time for the wine to open up, when it did, excellent balance, showed very well.
1990 Lafon Volnay Santenots du Milieu – Wet saddle leather, sappy, full mouthfeel and firm tannin, a nice wine that should improve with additional cellaring.
1995 Lafarge Volnay Clos des Chenes – High acidity, like the 1995 Lafon, took a long time for the wine to open up. In this case, it never quite came around. Continue to cellar for years.
Red Burgundy Flight 2
1980 Roty Charmes Chambertin – Chewy texture, earth, mineral, leather, with a touch of appealing green. Mature and very enjoyable, showed better than expectations.
2001 Drouhin Chambolle Musigny – Firm acidity, simply in style, not a lot to the wine that made it particularly appealing.
1990 Huet Vouvray Moelleux – Sadly, did not take notes on this wine. Vaguely recall a very pleasant end of evening wine. One of those instances of, a small group and lots of wine!
Cheers to a highly enjoyable evening that will hopefully repeat itself again!
Santa Rosa Fine Wine